Monday 10 December 2012

Palo Cortado Viejo CP 20%, Valdespino

Appearance
Lightish amber, quite pale really, fading through pale yellow to a hint of green at the rim, legs.
Nose
Relaxed, deceptively light and very complex. A hint of that implied but non-existent sweetness, toasted bread, almond and hazelnut, traces damp old barrels, slightly tangy dried fruits such as apricot, date, incredibly fresh and no trace of woodiness, all the elements perfectly harmonised as only age can achieve.
Palate
Broadly similar, quite light and fairly tangy, with lots of toasted bread and hazelnut, big on flavour rather than weight and incredibly elegant, in fact less "oloroso-y" than many Palos Cortados, a little more like delicate Amontillado in style with amazing length and great refinement.
Comments
An exquisite wine which I could drink forever. The "CP" comes from the initials for Calle Ponce, the street in which the bodega was which stored this wine. (It is just off the Calle Larga, round the corner from Sanchez Romate). The bodega, which is now in a ruinous state, had a very old column still which mysteriously disappeared. All the Valdespino soleras are now safely housed in a purpose-built bodega built by Grupo Estevez. This wine, from a single vineyard, Inocente, is created from a system of a solera and 4 criaderas, the 4th of which is supplied from the 9th criadera of the Fino Inocente and the 9th criadera of the Amontillado Tio Diego, both wines with flor at this early stage, but which is soon lost. CP is estimated to be around 25 years old, which is a lovely age; not too concentrated and retaining freshness and a slight reminder of the flor. Bottled once a year, quantities are so small it is sold on allocation.

Price
£ 30.95 from Drinkmonger Edinburgh

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